Save your favorite variety of currants in several ways. One of the options - plant a young bush, with already formed roots. The second of the methods is a bit more complicated. - from old fruiting bushes to cut off the shoots by cutting. Both options are good for increasing the number of currant bushes on the site (cottage). Let's take a closer look at the rules of planting garden currants in the fall, step by step guide and schemes.
The best time for planting in Siberia, the Urals, Moscow region and southern regions
Plant currant bushes worth early autumn or spring. In the northern regions, in the Urals and in Siberia Currant can be planted in the summer (late August), in outskirts of Moscow - the end of September - the beginning of October, in the southern regions disembarking is made later - from 10-15 numbers of October. This allows the plant to adapt to the ground. And at the same time, and adapt to wintering. Yes, and the mother bush is easier to transfer cuttings at rest and approaching winter. But the optimal landing time is September. And for all regions.
Spring planting is carried out on heated ground. It is better to start it at the end of March.. Then the earth is warmed up, and the soil almost never freezes through. Yes, and water the plant is not necessary. But the shoots will not start to grow at high speed. This will give time to the cutting itself (young bush) to take root.
Advantages of autumn planting red and black currants
Of course, the autumn planting is fraught with many risks. But it does provide several advantages over spring sowing.:
- rooting fast
- lack of pests
- good adaptation to the ground
- friendly spring shoots
- active crown formation.
Such results will be only when the technology of planting plants in open ground and proper care after planting is observed. And most importantly - the choice of a suitable place. It should be covered on the windy side by other shrubs or fencing.
There is also a not very pleasant nuance during the autumn planting. it probability of damage to young bushes of red, white and black currants during the winter frosts. But such grief can be helped by covering the plants for the winter with foil.
Choosing the right bush
By the selection of young seedlings should be approached responsibly. Which bush to choose? There are several ways to obtain the desired variety of plants:
- grafting from an old fruiting plant
- purchase of annual bush favorite variety
- independent growing shoots from grafted plants.
Of course, it is better to plant an already proven variety that has got accustomed to the plot. To do this, cut off the young plant from the old plant and plant it in a prepared place.
But if you need to buy a currant bush, then it is worth choosing according to several parameters:
- two or more shoots
- root is stiff with a little nap
- without external signs of disease
- no broken roots or cut parts.
Such a choice is guaranteed to give good yields., rapid growth of the bush, resistance to disease (at least at first).What should be currant seedlings
Often gardeners prefer to experiment themselves. therefore graft a different variety to the main plant. And then from such a vaccination take escape to form a new young bush. This breeding method is also good. Only shoots need to be taken from those plants that are not sick, excellent fruit. You can cut the sprout after the currant begins to lose leaves. This usually starts by mid-September..
Preparing a landing site
Before making cuttings (cutting off shoots from an old bush), it is necessary to decide on the place of future planting of a young bush. For varieties of black currants, the best place would be an illuminated area that is not obscured by the sun. Not bad pick up a lowland area with good humidity. This will provide several benefits:
- fast development bush
- increased yield
- plentiful bloom without barren
- large fruit.
It is better if the soil is low acid. Yes, and looseness also plays an important role in the rooting of the bush.
Red and white currants prefer bright places, but grow well in a small shade. The main thing - the lack of acidity in the soil. And it is better if such a place is on the dais. Wherein Do not forget that loose soil helps the plant to start new shoots with sufficient speed. And that means, the harvest will not have to wait long.
We fertilize soil for young bushes
For those farmsteads where soils are low in acid, it is sufficient to fertilize with a mineral additive before planting. And after fertilizing slightly loosen. And you can plant prepared cuttings.
And there, where there is a lot of salts and acids, it is necessary to slightly improve the soil. This is done like this:
- topcoat is removed at the landing site at 40-45cm
- mixed mined soil with dolomite flour (0.5 kg per 1 sq. M.)
- falling asleep back to the landing site
- fertilizes mineral supplements.
This will help the plants to start well and actively bear fruit in the second year after planting.Before planting currants in the ground add mineral fertilizers or compost
Fertilizers to be used should be as natural as possible. Best for all varieties of currant Gumat + 7yod for fruit bushes. True, you need to use it strictly according to the instructions, not exceeding the dose.
Many gardeners prefer to fertilize the soil for planting currants with humus or compost. This will also give excellent results for the plants themselves and their owners. But here it is necessary to fill the humus in the prepared places for a couple of weeks before planting the cuttings. Then the ground has time to settle slightly. And the compost itself is better mixed with the soil.
Sometimes places for planting currant bushes fertilized with potash mixtures. This approach takes time and additional expense. Although for loamy soils such a fertilizer fits perfectly. But on top of the mixtures it is necessary to pour a layer of soil for the calm growth of a young bush.
We plant a plant in the fall in an open ground, the step-by-step guide
First, it is necessary to dig a hole for planting. Next is to determine the type of landing.
If you plant in the traditional waythen the plant in the pit should be positioned so that above the ground it is in an inclined position at an angle of 45 degrees. At the same time, for the black currant after shrinkage of the soil, the root system should deepen by 10 cm. And for red and white - it can be a little less (5 cm). Pruning is required up to 3 buds above the ground.Scheme of proper planting currant bush
When sprinkling the plant with soil, it is worthwhile to make the lower 3 shoots fall asleep. Then in spring young branches will grow from these buds.
For fan modewhen the plants are hanging on short trellises, the bush is set vertically. The root penetration is the same as in the previous method. But here it is worth tightly tamping a place under a bush. And then the branches should be cut to half.
Trellis way involves pre-trimming before landing. Then it is necessary to remove all pericarp buds and small shoots. Then put it vertically in the ground. But after planting, pruning such a bush is not necessary. Deepening the roots, as in the previous methods.
Proper care of a young bush after planting
Care for a young plant after it is placed in the ground need a little more:
- soil mulching peat, compost or humus (up to 10 cm in depth)
- sprinkling holes sand (so that the crust does not appear on the ground after watering)
- abundant watering warm water (if autumn is dry)
- hilling bushes before frosts (15cm).
In the spring, when the earth is just beginning to warm up, young plants should be freed from a large layer of earth spud for the winter. This will allow the currant to quickly grow and begin to form a crown.
Tips for novice gardeners
Some useful information that will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners:
- currant bushes better place in one placerather than around the perimeter of the plot - it will give abundant yields and help the plants retain the right amount of moisture
- currant bushes can be cut off not only in spring but also in autumn - the formation of bushes in the spring after autumn pruning will be more active and faster
- from the frost on the soil currants better cover with a dark film - it will give good condensate even from the winter sun.
- water plants it is abundantly needed only during the drought period - black currant especially loves water.
Choosing the right place, preparing the soil, adherence to planting technology guarantees abundant harvests from each bush. In this case, the berry will be large and tasty.
Before planting, the seedling should be cut, leaving three buds on the branch. Inspect the root system and cut rotted and dried roots - just do not overdo it.
Advice from Zoya Bukhteyeva. Among experienced gardeners there is such a custom: an old, worn shoe should be put at the bottom of the pit.
The advice is at least strange, but the bushes above the shoe take root really better and more reliably than without it. I suspect that the smell of a person scares away moles and they do not undermine currant roots.
Personally, I put a thin layer of fresh manure on the bottom of the pit and carefully sprinkle it with sand mixed with plain earth. Our plot is old and the soil has long been exhausted.
Then, in about a half of the pit, I pour in a fertile mixture from all the buckets and vessels, mix and then water it again. I set the shrub with the root collar flush with the ground level and fill it with the rest of the mixture. If the seedlings of red or white currant are taken from my or a neighboring plot, the bush should be oriented along the cardinal points in the same way as it grew. For black varieties it does not matter.
I water the bush once more under the root, then pour in from above in order to mulch a layer of loam taken out of the pit. On sandy soil the ground is mulched with peat. The roots of the plant do not tolerate emptiness, so I carefully trample the ground around the trunk. If the root neck is exposed, it should be sprinkled with a fertile mixture.
The last watering - and the bush of the currant before spring can be left alone.
The awkwardness on the Internet or how not to plant currant
Planting currant bushes is a very popular topic on the Internet. Some authors do not rely on their own experience, but rewrite each other, often without having ever planted a single bush. I would like to warn readers against the wrong advice that wanders from article to article.
The first thing that just brought me into shock was the recommendation to plant a seedling at an inclination of 45 degrees towards the row. Is it like - tilted? A sapling is a shrub, a small but shrub with a developed root system. According to the technology of landing it is lowered into the pit, deepened. And then, is it going to grow with a slope, or will the branches subsequently bend upwards? I thought for a long time, where did the 45 degrees come from and finally realized: the cuttings are planted under the slope! Not saplings, but cuttings, in order to grab more buds with earth, from which branches will later grow and the root system will develop. BUT seedlings are always planted vertically upwards.
The second strange advice is that if the currant grows on sandy soil, clay should be added to the pit. I wonder where the gardener will find this clay, if there is sand around? In the sculpture workshop? Then it's easier to fill a broken brick to the bottom.
Third: the autumn planting currant "on the hill" - a sure way to lose the bushes. Zoya Bukhteeva is still grieving over the varietal shrubs of the currant, which the authoritative neighbor has literally forced to plant, preventing her from digging down the roots. No pouring, earthing, lining and fallen leaves did not save her from freezing.
If you have close subsurface waters, choose another place, and plant irises, a bathing suit, and bergenia there. If the plot is in a swamp, do irrigation work, but do not plant currant on the hill!
Properly planted red, white and black currant will give a good harvest and for many years will provide the owners with excellent berries for vitamin mixes, unique jelly and just a delicious dessert.
Pros and cons of autumn planting currants
The optimum time for planting all varieties of currants is September (in the south and early October) when the bushes begin to go into a state of relative rest, and almost two months are left before the real frosts. This time should be enough for the sapling to settle down, the roots have mastered the space given to them and in early spring began to supply the above-ground part with nutrients and moisture.
In the autumn, it is much easier to work with the earth: in the spring it is necessary to plant currants very early, before the buds swell, and at this time it is still very difficult to stick a shovel into the ground. It is this fact associated with the need to finish the spring work before the currant begins to wake up, and makes autumn a preferred time. The pit can be prepared as soon as the area becomes free, and the planting procedure is carried out as the seedling is purchased.
There are probably no downsides in the autumn planting. The only peculiarity is that the currant planted in the fall must be carefully covered for the winter in order to avoid freezing of the not yet fully accustomed bush. Yes, in the case of a dry autumn, it is necessary not to miss the emergency drying, watering currants in time.
Step by step instructions for planting currants
The optimal growing conditions for different types of currant vary slightly. Black currant is more frost-resistant and generally less whimsical than red varieties. But for her to find a site that would be constantly slightly wet, though without swamping. Redcurrant can temporarily put up with a small drought, but feels bad in the absence of constant sunshine.
Any currant should be protected from piercing winds, so they try to plant it near the fence or near fruit trees. This is especially true of black currant, which is completely reconciled with penumbra. The soil should have an average composition (sandy loam, loam), be neutral or slightly acidic, fertile.
When planting a currant near the fence, it is sometimes grown even in the trellis version.
Before dividing the site and digging holes, complete digging should be done, carefully removing the rhizomes of the weeds. When digging it is desirable to make the usual doses of fertilizers (a bucket of manure, 200 g of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m 2) and, if necessary, to reduce acidity, lime or chalk.
It is even better if in the summer siderats grew on the site, which, before flowering, are buried in the soil during the digging process.
Landing pit preparation
The pit can be dug at any time, but it’s better if it has been standing for at least 2–3 weeks before landing. When digging, as usual, the lower clay layer is removed, and the upper, fertile, mixed with fertilizers (1-1.5 buckets of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 2 cups of ash) and placed in a pit. As a rule, a pit with dimensions of 40 x 40 x 40 cm is sufficient. Having returned the fertilized soil to the pit, they pour 2–3 buckets of water into it.
A currant pit is not needed big, but it must be prepared in advance.
If several bushes are planted, they leave about 1.5 m between them (and 2–2.5 m between the rows - during the mass planting of currants). And during the development of the site several bushes of different varieties are planted very desirable. But do not plant black and red currants mixed: care for them is a little different.
Usually used for planting biennial currant seedlings. Previously, they slightly trim the roots and put in water for several hours. The landing itself is carried out as follows.
- Immediately before planting, the roots of the seedling are dipped in a clay mash (a mixture of equal quantities of clay and mullein with water, diluted to the consistency of sour cream). The chatterbox allows the seedling to get used to the new place more quickly.
- A part of the soil is removed from the pit, a mound is formed in the pit, and a seedling is placed on it. Roots distribute evenly and without undue tension. At the same time, the root collar is placed 6–8 cm below the soil level, and the bush itself is inclined at an angle of about 45 °. With slanting, additional roots are formed faster.
- Gradually filling the pit with soil extracted from it, periodically compact it with the hands and then with the legs. After filling the pit poured into it a bucket of water. All voids in the pit must be filled with soil.
- After the water is absorbed, the required amount of soil is added and the sides are made of it, which keep irrigation water. Water again so that the water is no longer absorbed. Be sure to mulch the soil. All soil in the pit must be reliably wetted.
- Pruned shoots, no matter how sorry, almost completely, leaving no more than 2 buds on each outside.
Subsequent care depends on the weather. If there is no rain, the sapling is watered often, until the onset of severe frosts. As the cold weather sets in, the bush is covered for winter with coniferous spruce branches or spunbond.
When planting currants - in the fall or spring
Сажать красную и чёрную смородину можно весной и осенью, однако осенняя процедура имеет больше преимуществ по сравнению с весенней посадкой. But when we plant a currant in the fall, we consciously take some risk. It is important to choose the right time for planting, so that the sapling or rooted cutting has time to settle down and safely survive the winter.
Advantages inherent in planting currants in the fall:
- cuttings and seedlings take root quickly,
- there is a decrease in the activity of pests and pathogens,
- seedlings and cuttings go well the adaptation period,
- in spring there is a harmonious awakening of vegetative buds and the growth of new shoots,
- there is a rapid spring growth of the vegetative mass and the formation of the crown.
However, it should be noted that such results can be achieved only when the planting technology is observed and proper post-planting care is carried out. Equally important is the correct choice of place under the currants. It should be lit and protected from cold winds.
It should be remembered that the cuttings planted in the fall and seedlings of white, black or red currants can freeze out during the cold winter days. But this can be avoided if the autumn planting of currants to produce in the best possible time, and then cover the young bushes for the winter insulating material.
Conditions required for landing
When planting a currant in the fall, it can sometimes be difficult to decide on which days to begin the procedure. To a greater extent, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the growing region.
For example, in the northern areas, Siberia and the Urals, planting operations begin from the end of August. And in the Astrakhan region, currant saplings are planted after October 15.
The main factor determining the timing of landing is the weather.
- If you land later than the optimum timing, then a quick drop in air temperature and freezing will destroy the young bushes.
- If you hurry up and plant currant bushes earlier than recommended, new shoots will begin to grow on them, which themselves will die from frost in winter and will significantly weaken the seedling. As a result, he will not be able to safely winter and freeze.
It turns out that you need to plant currants about 3 weeks before the arrival of frost in order for the sapling to take root well, but did not have time to release new shoots. All varieties of currants exhibit a high survivability and in order to kill them during planting, one must try very hard.
It is also desirable that after the landing, for 20 days the temperature does not fall below plus 5 degrees. During this time, the bush will have time to take root - otherwise it will freeze.
Terms of planting currants in autumn
We have already noted that this crop is planted both in spring and in autumn. If you have a need to plant seedlings in the spring, then manage this procedure before the active movement of the plant's juice. Blooming buds suggests that you are already late with the landing.
It is much more convenient to perform landing in the autumn. At this time and time for planting released much more than in the spring, and the gardener is not observed a large workload of other garden work. For September and October, you can properly perform all the pre-planting, landing work and rightfully expect success.
By lunar calendar
Many thousands of years ago, a connection was revealed between the state of the Moon and its influence on garden and garden works, including the planting of berry and fruit crops.
Over time, the lunar seeding calendar was compiled, which takes into account 2 main points: the phase of the moon and its position in the zodiac signs. It is these moments that determine exactly what work is allowed to be performed in the garden or on the garden on specific calendar days.
Favorable days for planting currants in the fall of 2018 are the following:
- September - 1, 5-6. 18-19, 27-29,
- October - 2-3, 29-30,
- November - 25-26.
Absolutely not suitable days for landing work this year are the following days:
- September - 7. 20-22, 25-26,
- October - 4-5, 17-19, 22-24, 31.
In these days of September and October, it is better not to start planting currants at a permanent place in the garden, no matter how suitable they are for the weather conditions.
Adhering to the recommendations of the lunar calendar, you can plant currants in the best autumn days and then expect a good result.
Depending on the region
When choosing a planting day, the cultivation region and the prevailing weather conditions are of decisive importance.
It is known that in the fall, rooting will take about 20 days for varieties belonging to the black variety and 25 days for seedlings of the white and red varieties. It becomes clear that all landing activities should be completed about 30 days before the onset of freezing weather.
Below are the approximate dates when planting currants in the fall by region of the country:
- Ural and Siberia - August 26 - September 10,
- Moscow region - at the junction of September and October
- Central Russia - from September 25 to October 15,
- Volga region - from October 1 to October 20,
- South of Russia - the middle of October.
When planting in these periods, young plants have time to properly adapt to new conditions, settle down and meet the winter in a prepared state. On average, the best month for planting currants in the country is September.
Mostly, a gardener should take into account the prevailing weather conditions.
If the weather is warm in the fall, then the landing time can be safely moved for a week. This is necessary so that the bush after rooting does not begin to grow the vegetative mass, which will take a lot of power. In addition, green shoots that appeared in the fall will not have time to woody and freeze from frost.
If you have planned a spring planting, then this should be done when the soil at the site has warmed up sufficiently. Such conditions usually arise in late March or early April. By this time, the land is already warming up, and the frosts are disappearing. At this time, even heavy irrigation for planting is not required. And the bushes will root well and grow normally.
How to choose seedlings
The success of the whole enterprise depends on the correct selection of a sapling. Therefore, this issue must be approached with the utmost seriousness. There are the following options for obtaining the desired varieties of currants:
- harvesting cuttings from an old fruiting bush,
- purchase on the side of an annual sapling of the desired variety,
- growing seedlings from grafted plants.
Of course, it is better to plant a proven variety. To do this, separate the escape of the current year from the bush and plant it on the prepared place ahead of time.
If it becomes necessary to purchase a seedling of black, red or white currant, then it should be selected by the following parameters:
- have 2 or more stalks
- the branches must be ripe, not green,
- buds on the stems must be formed,
- root is lignified and have a little nap,
- there should be no signs of disease,
- roots and stems should not be broken.
Only with such a choice of material for planting currants in the fall with saplings can we count on the rapid growth and development of a young plant, its resistance to diseases and the formation of a good harvest in the future.
Saplings can be both annual and biennial - the main thing is that they have a well-formed root system.
Experienced gardeners prefer to conduct experiments by planting a bud or a cutting of another variety to a currant bush. And then from this vaccine take away the escape for planting a new bush. In this case, it is necessary to take shoots from healthy plants, which give excellent yields. Cut off similar shoots in September - at the time of leaf fall.
On slightly acidic and neutral soils before planting are limited to filling with mineral tukam. Then the soil needs to be dug up and prepared cuttings or seedlings can be planted.
- On saline and acidic soils, before planting requires the introduction of dolomite flour at the rate of 500 g per m2. To do this, you must first make flour and mineral fat on the surface of the soil, and then dig up the area of 35-40 cm.
- Dolomite flour will bring the soil solution close to neutral, and fertilizers feed it with useful elements. At such a site, the young currant quickly adapts and takes root, which will allow it to bear fruit for 2 years after planting.
- A good fertilizer for currants - Gumat + 7yod. But it is necessary to apply it, strictly adhering to the instructions, not allowing the dose to be exceeded. It is possible to add other fertilizers when planting.
Some farmers prefer to make organics under planting - compost or humus. There is nothing wrong with that, but only such fertilizers should be applied to the planting pits 2 weeks before the day of planting. In this case, organic matter will mix well with the soil and the soil will have time to settle.
It is necessary to make phosphate and potash fertilizers for the growth of roots. And even better when planting combine organic with mineral tukami. Such a combination of fertilizers is suitable for any soil and, in addition to supplying them with nutrients, will significantly improve the water and air properties of the soil.
You need to start by digging holes for planting a crop, and then you should decide on the method of planting.
In the usual way, the planting material in the hole is placed at an angle of 45 degrees. The roots of the black currant seedlings, after a light compaction of the soil, should be deepened by 10 cm. And for the red and white varieties, it is sufficient to bury the roots by 5-7 cm.
When planting currants in the fall with saplings, all the stems are pruned so that a small part remains with 3 buds above the soil level. The lower 3 kidneys should also be covered with soil. In the spring of them grow full-fledged shoots.
With this method of planting it is necessary to take into account that the plants will begin to hang on shortened trellis. Therefore, the seedling when planting set vertically. The roots are deepened to the same depth as with the classical method.
But you need to firmly tamp the soil around the bush, so that the seedling does not pull out. All branches of the planting material is shortened by half.
With this option requires preliminary preparation of seedlings on the day of planting. This removes all basal buds and small shoots. The seedling is planted vertically into the soil at the same depth as in the previous versions. When planting and immediately after it, the sapling is not pruned.
With any method of planting you need to maintain the distance between adjacent bushes from 1.5 to 3 meters. This interval will allow the bushes to grow normally and grow a large number of berries.
Step-by-Step Planting Technology
Proper implementation of the autumn planting of currants - is the key to good rooting and excellent spring regrowth of shoots. Below we provide a clear sequence of actions.
- Conduct a thorough inspection of the root system. Using the pruning shears, cut sick, dried and broken roots from the seedlings.
- Pour into the hole, prepared for planting, five-centimeter layer of soil on the nutrient mixture. This will prevent root burn. Water places for landing at the rate of 8 l on one hole.
- Place the seedling in the hole so that the root neck is 10 cm deep. Due to this, next spring, several shoots will arise from the soil, which are necessary for the normal formation of the shrub. When shtambovye varieties of currants are planted, the seedling in the hole is set vertically. Planting seedling
Stages of planting red currants in autumn
Caring for seedlings after planting
After planting, for the best engraftment of saplings and cuttings, some more mandatory actions are required:
- mulching the soil surface with peat or compost with a layer of 10 cm,
- putting sand into the holes to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil,
- in dry autumn, you need to perform frequent watering with warm water,
- hilling seedlings on the eve of frosts,
- late fall, you can cover planting film.
With the onset of spring you need to remove all the shelters and razokuchit bushes. This will speed up the moment of awakening of the plant from hibernation and the beginning of its growth.
Advice to novice gardeners
The following is a list of recommendations that may be suitable for novice gardeners and experienced agrarians:
- Currants should be placed in one place, and not to take away her bushes along all the borders of the villa. So in the zone of the roots will be stored more moisture, which will provide higher yields of berries.
- Pruning currant bushes is acceptable in spring and autumn. Autumn pruning is preferable, because after it there is a faster spring formation of bushes.
- From possible frosts, currant bushes are best covered with black film.
- Abundant watering after planting in the fall is needed only if the autumn is dry. Black currant needs more soil moisture than white or red.
With the right choice of a seat, proper soil preparation and compliance with the planting technology, a good survival rate of seedlings and abundant crops of currant bushes are guaranteed. The berries will be large with excellent taste.
Common landing errors
Even gardeners with experience can make serious mistakes when planting currants in the fall with seedlings, which then necessarily affects the result of the work. Check out the list of common errors:
- To buy seedlings with an open root system should be no earlier than the planting period in the region. If you purchase them earlier, then they may not be suitable for planting, since they did not enter a state of rest.
- It is unacceptable to plant seedlings on a freshly excavated plot. The soil there has not yet subsided, and you can make a mistake, deepening the root neck.
- Do not apply high doses of mineral fertilizers when planting. This can help create an aggressive environment in which beneficial soil bacteria will die.
Possible mistakes when planting black currants in the fall:
When she starts to bear fruit
Above we examined the characteristics of planting currants in the fall with saplings and cuttings, now the time has come for the main question - when will the plant bear fruit? With the onset of spring, currant bushes, depending on weather conditions, begin to grow in the last days of March or in early April. The black variety comes first, and then comes the turn to awaken the red and white currants.
On it are mixed buds, which initially give a shortened shoot, on which a floral brush forms at the base. Fruit brushes of this type of currant are evenly distributed along the entire length of the shoot. The greatest number of berries in black currant species give branches of the last year. Of particular value are the annual increments on the branches, which are 2 years old if they are located in the upper tier. It is on these growths grow the largest berries.
On the growths that occur on four-year branches, berries are also formed, but they are usually small and subject to shedding.
Branches that are more than 4 years old are unproductive. They appear weak gains with defective and easily crumbling berries. Often, these branches dry up, starting from the top, and new shoots grow from the root collar to replace them.
As a result, it turns out that the branches that are from 1 to 3 years old have the greatest value for the formation of the harvest of berries. They form high-quality berries in large quantities. Branches older than 3 years give little yield, they should be cut.
In the red variety of currant, the greatest yield of berries is obtained from the branches at the age of 2-5 years. Sometimes even branches that are more than 5 years old also give quite a decent harvest.
Skeletal branches have many fruit branches with a huge number of flower buds. However, the apical bud is always vegetative; a new shoot emerges from it, bearing new fruit branches. Fruit branches are usually located in the upper tier of the skeletal branch, and the rest of the stem does not branch at all.
Such an arrangement of fruit twigs forms a certain long-term fruiting, when the harvest of berries forms at the border of simple past years and new growth. However, in individual varieties of flower buds are deployed along the entire length of the shoot.
Currant is a culture that requires minimal care and time. At the same time, it consistently gives a good harvest of berries, very useful for a person. By consuming such berries, you can significantly strengthen your immunity and become immune to pathogens. In connection with these characteristics, currants must be planted on their own site.
By adhering to the rules outlined in this article and following the recommendations for planting currants in the fall with saplings and cuttings, you can grow red, black or white currants at your cottage or in your backyard.