On a solid platform polycarbonate greenhouse, you can simply put and secure anchors. But most of them install them in the garden or on the non-paved part of the yard. What is the best foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse and why?
Consider the three most popular options - wood, pile and tape. We have already described the principle of their device and characteristics in one of the articles, so we confine ourselves only to a comparison of the most important parameters.
Load bearing capacity
The frame of factory greenhouses with polycarbonate lining is usually made of steel profile: angle, V-shaped or pipe. Having a high strength, the profile remains relatively light, and therefore the foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse can also have a lightweight construction, for example, in the form of a wooden frame made of timber, steel anchor rods or thin driving piles.
Any finely submerged foundation of monolithic concrete or foundation blocks, as well as foundations of brick or stone on a gravel-concrete pad, have a much greater margin of safety than is necessary for greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate.
Possibility of installation on uneven ground or slope
- Under the ribbon or stone foundation will have to carefully align the site. On a slope, to make a strip foundation is unprofitable, since it will require a high consumption of materials.
- Wood can be installed without leveling on solid ground, placing a base under the wooden frame, for example, bricks. On slopes with a significant drop in levels, a columnar foundation is first made, and the frame is made of timber as a trim.
- Pile foundation does not require alignment, even on a slope. The main thing is to pick up the piles of the desired length.
The complexity and time of creation
Pile foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is created very quickly. Piles, anchors or locating rods are offered by most manufacturers of greenhouses on a metal frame. At the site, their location is marked in accordance with the dimensions of the frame frame and the installation of piles in just 1-2 hours is made:
- driven just knocked into the ground
- T-shaped ones are buried in the prepared pits, then the ground is filled up and compacted. Sometimes the anchor legs are immediately fixed on the frame, and then installed in the ground, checking the level,
- under the screw piles, they dig out small pits, and then screw them into the ground, controlling the vertical level.
Wooden foundation will require more time. The timber is first treated with an antiseptic, and only then the frame is built, connecting the corners to a paw or half-wood and additionally fixing the mounting corners from the inside. On the slopes, at first, the supporting pillars are constructed, often with bricks or reinforced concrete. The pillars are left to the curing of concrete or binder solution, and only then the frame is fixed and fixed.
The most labor-intensive monolithic strip and stone foundations. Their device includes trenching, backfilling, then formwork and pouring concrete or making stone / masonry. The underground part of the base must be protected from moisture, then make a back filling. A greenhouse on a concrete foundation is installed only after the strength of the concrete has been set, preferably after 4 weeks.
The cost of different types of foundation
Often, piles or anchors are already included in the delivery, and you do not have to pay extra for them. A wooden foundation will be inexpensive, especially if you make it yourself. It will be somewhat more expensive to build it on a slope, when additional posts are being constructed to level the level.
Brick, stone, concrete foundations are expensive even with a separate device. They are usually used if they want to give the greenhouse the most presentable appearance, despite the high cost, for example, when the greenhouse is installed next to a prestigious cottage.
What foundation is better
To make it easier to choose a foundation for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, which one is best suited for you, choosing the most important evaluation criteria for you. For convenience, we suggest using a comparative table of properties of different types of bases.
Comparative characteristics of foundations for polycarbonate greenhouses:
Choice and installation of the base under the greenhouse
The foundation for the greenhouse is the foundation that will ensure the stability, integrity, strength of the building. Whether you build with your own hands or have the opportunity to buy a ready-made structure and carry out self-assembly on the site, the site must be equipped in accordance with the specific features of the structure.
The article will tell you why you need a foundation, what is the best foundation for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, glass, with a timber frame, for metal structures, lightweight structures from boards, films, old window frames, etc. And we give a detailed step by step instructions on how to make a foundation for a greenhouse with polycarbonate with your own hands.
The base provides reliability, safety and stationarity of the building. But light structures on the site are temporary, so the question arises: in general, do you really need a foundation for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or other materials, and why? The answer is unequivocal - it is needed, this is a base that performs a number of important tasks:
- fixes the greenhouse frame, keeps it from gusts of wind, heavy rains, flooding the site and from other atmospheric surprises,
- isolates the structure from contact with the ground, protects materials from the harmful effects of the soil, significantly extends the life of the building,
- helps to keep up to 10% of heat inside, contributes to a favorable microclimate and save on heating,
- prevents mist from entering the greenhouse, cold air currents,
- helps to protect the structure and crop from harmful insects and rodents.
How to make a foundation for a greenhouse with your own hands, a photo of light construction on a tape
Types of greenhouse foundations
In total there are 4 types of foundations and each of them can be equipped for a greenhouse:
The choice of the base depends on the specifics of the soil on the site, its relief features, the scale of construction, the climatic conditions in the region, and more. etc. Further we will talk in detail about each type of the base under the greenhouse and materials for its device.
Ribbon foundation - the most popular base for almost all types of buildings. By the principle of erection, it can be:
- not deep - lying on hard ground, it is enough to remove the upper fertile layer, usually playing the role of a grillage for pile foundations,
- shallow-depth - fits into a trench 700-800 mm deep, on a specially prepared pillow, such a device is not desirable if there is high groundwater in the area,
- Recessed - recessed 200-400 mm below the soil freezing level, this parameter is individual, depends on the region, the average is 1200-1400 mm, you can see the exact information on the table.
For your information: We will not delve into the technical nuances, but it’s important to observe the rules when arranging strip foundations: the cross section must have a height greater than the width (thickness), and the overall length of the structure is 1.5-2: 1 to its width.
The foundation for the greenhouse of brick, the scheme of the device proper base
The optimum ratio of depth and height: 700: 300-400 mm. Before you make the foundation for a greenhouse, you must decide on the materials for the tape:
- Monolithic concrete, consisting of a reinforcing frame and filled with mortar.
- The base of the special ready-made concrete blocks interconnected by reinforcement.
- Rubble construction from stones and clay.
- Tape of brick, foam blocks, it is desirable to pour a monolithic concrete base, to build a base on it.
- Construction from scrap materials: thick timber, bottles, logs, etc.
Non-buried foundation for polycarbonate greenhouses, from timber on concrete supports
Good to know: It’s faster and cheaper to make a foundation for a greenhouse from a bar with your own hands. But the tree does not tolerate physicochemical and biological effects, it is saturated with moisture in the soil, a fungus appears, signs of rotting. In order to extend the service life, it is better to arrange the foundation for a greenhouse from a timber from hardwood, for example, larch, it is necessary to saturate the frame with protective compounds, cover it with bitumen mastic, lube, paste over roofing paper.
One of the inexpensive ways to put a polycarbonate greenhouse on it
The slab foundation is a solid, reliable foundation for construction in areas with high groundwater and unstable ground; the pyramids in the sand have such a base. The greenhouse can be installed on a plate of two varieties:
- Floating - the concrete platform is almost on the surface.
- The base with stiffeners is a combined construction of concrete tapes, a monolithic slab is attached to them from above. If the strip foundation must necessarily close along the contour, then in the case of a slab this requirement is absent.
To organize the slab, a excavation is excavated with a depth of 300-700 mm, a sand-crushed stone cushion is placed on the bottom, covered with geotextile, roofing material, this helps to avoid silting. The optimal thickness of the foundation depends on the expected loads: for household outbuildings and light greenhouses - 100 mm, for large stationary greenhouses, calculated for the winter period, 200-250 mm.
As a rule, a slab foundation for a greenhouse is made of concrete, but tires filled with earth and other available materials can be used.
Layout of the base plate
Pillar foundations are a simple, inexpensive, fast way to make a foundation. The pillars deepen by 700-800 mm, for small buildings it may be not sunk into the ground. The optimal distance between the pillars is 1.5-2.0 m.
Column foundation for the greenhouse can be made of materials:
- Brick laying, rubble stone.
- Use ready-made T-shaped concrete pillars.
- Install, reinforce and fill with a solution of metal, asbestos, ruberoid pipes.
- Foam blocks, flat rubble stones, even wooden stumps are suitable for organizing a non-buried column foundation.
A significant disadvantage of the columnar foundation for the greenhouse is the gap between the ground level and the base of the building, through which cold enters. Such conditions are contrary to the functionality of the building, so the perimeter should be insulated: make a brickwork, sew up with boards, etc.
The foundation for the greenhouse of foam blocks, high base will save the timber from the harmful effects
The pile foundation is the ideal solution for the construction of a greenhouse on a swampy or uneven plot. Arranged below the level of soil freezing by 200-300 mm. There are 2 types of piles:
- zabivny - pipes, sleepers, channel,
- screw - poles, equipped with blades, which are immersed in the earth in a circular motion using a drill or special equipment.
Important: The pile type of foundation does not require concrete work, the time for installation of the foundation is spent significantly less than for other types, but it is very difficult to screw up the supports strictly vertically, therefore it is recommended to use the services of specialists. If you make a pile foundation for the greenhouse yourself, in case of violation of the geometry of the support, you should pull it out and tighten it in another place.
Optimum installation of piles 1,5 - 2,0 m from each other. After installation, the upper tips are sawn in size and are connected by a grillage, which ensures the integrity and strength of the structure. Rostverk can be from a bar, sleepers or cast-in-concrete.
The organization of the pile base for the greenhouse with a monolithic concrete grillage
Let's sum up
If you choose the base for glass construction, film buildings, the base for the construction of the old window frames, prefabricated metal structures, the foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse, which is better with some certainty impossible to say. It is necessary to rely on geodetic surveys, the quality of the soil, the dimensions and materials, the weight of the building and the climatic conditions depend on them.
For capital warm constructions it is recommended to make a strip foundation - this option is suitable for almost all conditions. Temporary and light greenhouses, in an effort to save money, can be safely installed on a dotted column base.
The internal structure of the tape base for the greenhouse
Making a drawing
Before building a greenhouse, you should choose a project or make a drawing with your own hands, indicating the size and main components of the structure. It also defines the materials, their number, the main stages of work. It is better to use a typical project and adapt it to your own conditions.
Typical ergonomic greenhouse project
Choosing a place
The choice of location depends on the individual characteristics of the site. It is better to build a greenhouse on the south and the most windless side, behind the house. Clearing the site from debris, tree roots, weeds. We enclose the perimeter with pegs, we stretch the rope, we check the geometry. Diagonals must be equal. Remove the top, soft layer of soil.
We dig around the perimeter of the trench 800 mm deep. The bottom is aligned. We cover roofing material with 2 layers, you can lay geotextiles. Fall asleep rubble, sandstone, layers of 100-200 mm, ram pillow.
Install the reinforcement frame. There will be two horizontal belts, two parallel rods each, vertical bundles every 300-500 mm. The armature is grooved, with a cross section of 8-12 mm. We put on the bottom of a pebble, 50 mm high, or stand.
We put 2 lower horizontal rods, the distance between them is 200 mm, we lay smooth thin rods perpendicular to better preserve the shape of the frame. At the corners, we fix the reinforcement to the adjacent side, with we go 500 mm or more. Also in the other hand, a double overlap is obtained to strengthen the structure. We drive in vertical rods, we tie up the details with wire. We mount in the same way the upper horizontal belt.
How to knit reinforcement
The distance between the horizontal belts depends on the height of the foundation for the greenhouse. If the tape is 400 mm in height, then there must be a distance of 300 mm between the upper and lower rods, +50 mm per concrete layer on each side. The width is calculated the same way, if the total dimension is 300 mm, then the frame is 200 mm. Do not forget, the height must necessarily be greater than the width of the tape.
We install a formwork in a trench; these can be battered boards from boards, moisture-resistant plywood, plastic durable panels. For the correct geometry, we make a bundle on the top of the batten with bars, and from the outside we install struts, they will hold the structure when casting with concrete.
For your information: In order to preserve heat in a greenhouse as much as possible, to protect the building from harmful effects, the height of the foundation must be designed so that it rises 1/3 above the ground level.
The tape should be poured in one step, so that no seams and cold walkways are formed. The proportions of the solution for the foundation under the greenhouse: cement (binder) - 1 part, sand - 3 parts, crushed stone, fraction to 40 mm (preferably 10-20 mm) 4-5 parts, water 4-5 parts, to the consistency of thick sour cream. Dry components are first thoroughly mixed, then water is added.
In the photo, how to properly pour the base for a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands
In the crate fill the mixture, ramming, remove the air. Bubbles in frozen concrete will lead to destruction. The solution must be hardened, until complete formation - 4 weeks, only then load the foundation.
We remove the formwork, glue the sides with roofing material or coat with bitumen mastic on 2 layers, fix foam sheets on top, you can order insulation - PPU spraying. From above, the sheets are covered with 2 layers of roofing material, overlapped seams of 100-200 mm each, sealed with tape, we weld with a blowtorch. Backfill the soil. For horizontal waterproofing on top of the foundation, roofing material is laid under the greenhouse.
How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the foundation
For fresh concrete in the center of the tape, in the corners and every meter, it is recommended to install and release outward reinforcement for steel structures or special corners with welded anchors, for fixing bars, and the greenhouse frame will be attached to them. If mortgages were not provided in the process of pouring the foundation under the greenhouse, then the frame can be fixed with anchor bolts.
The method of fastening the frame to the foundation
Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on the foundation has another important step: in order to avoid drafts, ice, freezing, the gap formed when the base of the greenhouse adjoins the foundation, is sealed with elastic sealants, a gasket with rubber edges is laid into the gap. This is especially important if the construction is insulated and it is planned to grow crops throughout the year. When setting up a winter greenhouse, do not forget about additional lighting and heating.
Polycarbonate Greenhouse Foundation
Почти всегда под теплицу из поликарбоната необходимо сделать фундамент. Этого можно не делать только в том случае, если строение устраивается на весеннее-летний период для выращивания рассады, а на зиму будет убираться. Тогда арочный каркас крепится на глубоко вбитые в землю металлические прутья. But even the temporary structure will be more comfortable to use if you make at least a small base, since the height of the greenhouse will be greater.
Why do we need a foundation for a greenhouse
There are several reasons to build a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse:
- The foundation ensures the sustainability of the greenhouse. Not fixed to the base, the design can be easily torn off by strong gusts of wind or felled. If it is intended to build a stationary structure of large size, the foundation is a prerequisite
- Installed on the basis of the greenhouse walls are protected from pollution, so this structure looks more solid, polycarbonate sheets do not need to be buried in the ground, and its lower part does not suffer from moisture,
- The foundation protects plants from late frosts in spring and early fall,
- In the greenhouse on the foundation, it is easier to protect the inner space from the invasion of pests and weeds.
Types of foundations for polycarbonate greenhouses
Usually a strip foundation is arranged under the greenhouse, and it can be made from such materials:
To decide which foundation is better to choose, you first need to decide on the scale of the building and its purpose. The wooden foundation has the simplest design, is good for small greenhouses, and is arranged in the event that it will need to be moved.
Block and brick foundations are much more reliable and have great advantages than wood. But if you intend to make a solid construction, in the hope that it will serve you for more than a dozen years, it is better to make a combined strip concrete-brick foundation. Such a foundation is especially good to erect in areas with marshy ground in order to limit the access of moisture to the greenhouse from the outside.
Technology of the device of the concrete and brick base under the greenhouse
Foundation construction begins with the preparation of the trench. It is dug out according to the plan outlined in the plot, in accordance with the length and width of the future greenhouse. Depths of 20 cm is enough to grow seedlings in the spring, followed by transplanting it into open ground.
If you are planning to start growing seedlings and greenery in the winter, then you can think about whether a deeper foundation is needed. Having deepened it on 40 cm in soil, you exclude freezing of the greenhouse. The width of the trench is not critical, but should not be less than 20 cm.
When the land in the area is loose, the inner walls of the trench are reinforced with formwork - it will prevent the collapse of the earth walls during the pouring of concrete. You can make it from any available materials: old boards or plywood, and unzip inside the transverse planks. The space between the formwork and the trench walls is filled with previously excavated soil and compacted.
If there is a need to install a very large greenhouse, you can raise the concrete belt of the foundation 20 cm above the soil level. Accordingly, at the same height and need to raise the formwork. The upper edge of the formwork boards is leveled so that the brickwork laid on the concrete does not warp.
At the bottom of the prepared trench, a layer of gravel up to 5 cm thick is poured, moistened with water, and then poured with concrete.
The proportions of concrete for the foundation:
- 1 part cement,
- 2.5 parts of fine sand,
- 4 pieces of filler (gravel or broken stone).
Concrete is poured in one day in order not to form fragile joints at the base, through which moisture and cold can penetrate into the greenhouse. As the laying of concrete, it must be tamped. Usually a vibrator is used for this, but for such a small structure it can be done with the simplest method: pierce the concrete fill with a bayonet spade several times so that the solution shrinks and becomes denser.
During the pouring of concrete, it is possible to lay pieces of reinforcement, wire rod or wire along the entire perimeter in the longitudinal direction, which further strengthens the base and will prevent its cracking.
The top layer of concrete is leveled by level, and anchor bolts are installed on its surface, to which the frame of the greenhouse will be fixed. During the week the concrete will harden, and if the weather is hot, all this time it should be moistened with water from time to time to prevent cracking of the concrete surface.
The device is a brick part of the foundation
A low brick wall is laid on an established concrete base. Its height varies from 20 to 40 cm - this is enough so that the lower part of the greenhouse walls is not splashed with mud during rain, and that there is sufficient light access to the plants inside the greenhouse.
First, the corners of the structure are laid out, and then the gap between the walls and the honey. Previously installed anchor bolts are located in the joints between the bricks, and all the seams are tightly filled with cement-sand mortar.
Subsequently, the frame of the greenhouse will be screwed to the bolts with nuts, and, if necessary, they can be unwound and the walls can be replaced or repaired. But it can be done differently: instead of bolts, insert embedded parts into the concrete, and then weld a frame to them with the help of a welding machine.
The final stage of the work is the installation of a small blind area around a brick wall. Around the perimeter, the ground is chosen to a depth of 3 cm and a width of about 30-40 cm, and the depression is filled with gravel and compacted. If you do not want to deal with weeds sprouting through the blind area, fill it with cement-sand mortar and level it with a slight slope from the wall. Rainwater will flow down the slope and not heat the greenhouse.
Advantages of the combined foundation
- Brickwork is always beautiful.
- The concrete foundation is a monolithic foundation, therefore the most durable.
- The concrete base can be used for re-construction, including for a heavier structure.
So, from what and how to make a stationary base under the greenhouse of polycarbonate most often depends on the availability of certain materials. But most importantly, you should be confident in the reliability and durability of the structure.
Good foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse: which one is betterThe foundation for the design must meet the criteria of durability and convenience A durable foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse. which one is better to choose will only careful analysis of the set of parameters. The size of the site, the chemical composition of the soil and the depth of its freezing, the volume of the greenhouse and the duration of its use - all this must be analyzed in order not to waste money. As soon as all information will be presented in the form of mathematically exact values, you can go to work.
How to make the foundation for a greenhouse polycarbonate with the use of bricks
Regardless of the selected material, the creation of the foundation for the greenhouse begins with the formation of a markup corresponding to the parameters of the structure. At the next stage, it is necessary to excavate to a depth of 210 to 255 mm.Grounds for greenhouses are made of materials traditional for the construction of foundations
The maximum value is taken only in the absence of strong frosts in the region. After that, fine gravel is added to the resulting hole, followed by leveling.
The final stage of tamping is re-measurement. If the level of gravel is less than 50-60 cm, then in this case it is necessary to fill to the specified value. The more accurately the gardener can withstand this parameter, the smaller the greenhouse depends on the change in the ground level.
Further it is necessary to adhere to the sequence given below:
- Concrete is being prepared in the required quantity.
- Waterproofing brickwork using roofing material,
- Before laying the brickwork, all elements of the future base of the greenhouse should be fixed in the ground,
- It is recommended to use a building level to get rid of irregularities,
- Even a small space between bricks must be filled with mortar.
Beginner builders pay attention to the difficulties associated with the correct definition of the size of the "pillow". There are no universal values, so you need to proceed from the size of the future structure and the estimated weight. Not the last role is played by the duration of use of the greenhouse. For example, for winter it is better to make a “pillow” smaller, and for year-round it is more. This will prevent quick wear.
Polycarbonate greenhouse: clay foundation
The second alternative is the basis with the use of clay, which is mistakenly considered not to be a sufficiently strong material. Experts say that the strength of a structure made by hand is largely dependent on the physical parameters of the clay. The secret lies in the mandatory addition of sandstone (stone). Even with strong changes in temperature and humidity levels, even wooden structures will not lose stability.It is this type of foundation used by builders in ancient Russia. This is proved by the fact that ancient Russian buildings with a clay foundation are still preserved.
In addition to ease of installation and durability, the clay has a low cost. Thanks to this quality, a greenhouse made of polycarbonate can be installed with minimal financial costs. The key parameters here are 2 parameters - density (2750 kg per 1 cubic meter) and maximum compression ratio (400 MPa).
The following recommendations will help to create it correctly:
- Place pegs on the proposed site,
- A trench is being dug, taking into account the depth of freezing,
- From the lowest point of freezing, 200 mm is deposited and a trench is dug,
- A stone is poured on the leveled surface,
- Dissolve the clay and fill it with a layer of stone
- Lay out another layer of stone and repeat the fill as described above.
This way you need to fill strictly 2/3 of the height of the excavated trench. The final stage of casting is performed using a mixture of hydrated lime and clay in a 1: 1 ratio.
Easy way: how to put a greenhouse made of polycarbonate without a foundation
In the presence of favorable climatic conditions, installation of the greenhouse is allowed without the use of a full-fledged foundation. You should not think that the greenhouse literally just stands on the ground. In this case, do not have to rely on any crop. Properly organized preparatory work will help reduce the negative impact of the celestial office.Greenhouse without foundation can be installed independently. Such an installation will save significant funds on the device.
It is possible to securely fasten structures on a site in several ways. The first involves the installation of not only the basic fastening elements of the base, but also several additional ones.
The number of the latter is determined by the size of the structure. The second option is based on the use of thermal insulation coating. It is installed strictly along the perimeter of the greenhouse.
Its benefits include the following characteristics:
- Resistant to prolonged moisture,
- Does not allow frozen ground to adversely affect seedlings,
- Durable - guaranteed service life is 2-3 years.
To avoid common mistakes when installing a protective coating will help attention to detail. It is necessary to make sure that all elements fit snugly together. This will help the lit match. If the flames even “dance” a little, then this indicates the need for additional thermal insulation.
Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on the foundation (video)
A properly formed foundation for a greenhouse will reduce the susceptibility of the whole structure to the vagaries of nature and temperature fluctuations. A foundation is being built taking into account the specific climate of the region and the physicochemical characteristics of the building materials that are planned to be used. The absence of errors at the stage of design and construction allows to operate the foundation for 5-10 years, depending on the materials.
Justification of the need to arrange the foundation
The decision on the choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the actual level of frost heaving. For territories where the average annual temperature is above 0 degrees, the calculation is carried out taking into account information from GOST R 57361-2016 / EN ISO 13793: 2001. The document comes into force on 01.07.2017. It is especially important when designing heated greenhouses, as it helps to calculate the estimated heat loss and provides problem solving techniques.
The base under the polycarbonate greenhouse is designed to perform the following functions:
- Protect the base from moisture, temperature extremes. Directly to the polycarbonate itself, the influence does not harm, what can not be said about the boxes for plants, their contents.
- The greenhouse foundation ensures structural stability. Due to its presence, the structure will not change its location even with heavy precipitation, a serious rise in groundwater.
- Levels the floor relative to ground level. If you plan to build a greenhouse on the slope, then you can not do without it.
- Protects the soil inside the premises from the penetration of pests outside.
- Simplifies the creation of the necessary microclimate.
On this basis, experts advise to equip the ribbon shallow-foundation or continuous of reinforced concrete. However, this does not mean that other options should be immediately abandoned. Perhaps, in some specific case, the usual wooden, columnar or brick construction would be better.
Kinds of the bases for hotbeds
The base for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate can be made of various materials: wood, reinforced concrete blocks, steel pipes, bricks or SME, natural stone. As a rule, in the middle zone of Russia it is quite enough that it is 0.3 meters deep. The exception is when there is heaving soil in the area. In this case, the choice is left for the pile or floating foundation.
Brickwork is used in situations where it is necessary to level the structure due to the fact that there is a slope on the site. For the same purpose can be equipped with a strip foundation or block. The columnar construction is chosen in situations where it is necessary to reduce costs to a minimum. Its plus is low cost. However, there is a fairly large number of minuses that should be considered.
This type of base is considered the most solid and durable. Doing the work yourself is simple enough. The strip foundation for the greenhouse is built according to the following algorithm:
- Markup is done.
- Trenching is done.
- Inside fit a canvas geotextile. This is done in such a way that from above it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
- A sand and gravel pad is being arranged and compacted.
- Put formwork. It is possible to use a fixed construction.
- Knitted frame of reinforcement. It is better to take the class A3. Cell size 10x10 cm
- Fitted frame on the sand and gravel pillow.
- Concrete is prepared and poured into the trench.
- After 7 days the formwork is removed.
- To improve waterproofing, the outer side of the reinforced concrete structure is treated with liquid bitumen. Now there are ready-made mixtures on sale, which are easily applied with a conventional wide brush.
- The gap is filled with sand and gravel.
During the week is required to provide care for concrete. By this is meant its regular wetting. After 7 days you can begin to install the greenhouse.
Geotextiles have an important feature - its ability to pass moisture depends on which side of the material it is located. Therefore, it is important to correctly lay it, otherwise water will accumulate under and around the foundation.
This type of foundation is suitable for almost all types of soil. After the survey of the land, determining the height of the level of rise of groundwater and the maximum amount of precipitation, choose the length of the piles, their size. Installation is made in steps of 3-5 meters. At the end of the pile there is a thread. Thanks to her, she is screwed into the rock to the required depth. The metal is covered with a special protective layer that prevents the formation of rust. After installing the piles on top of the strapping is made of metal or timber. After that the greenhouse is mounted.
Bulk solid foundation
On heaving soils, even a lightweight structure has a high probability of deformation of the walls due to subsidence of the foundation. A floating construction helps to avoid this. For its arrangement, it is not a trench that is being dug up, but a hole of the necessary depth and diameter. At the bottom they make a sand-gravel pillow with a height of 10 cm. It is well moistened and compacted. Next, the framework of the reinforcement with a cell of 10x10 cm will knit. It is impractical to make it smaller, since the mass of the greenhouse with the ground is small. The perimeter of the frame is 5-10 cm less than that of the pit.
The resulting construction is put on the bottom. Formwork is placed at the edges of the pit. If you use a non-removable option, in the future you will not need to carry out additional waterproofing. The whole space of the pit is filled with concrete. During the week, its surface must be wetted to prevent the occurrence of cracks. Через семь дней опалубка снимается и производится гидроизоляция по бокам.
Кирпич – универсальный материал, который не боится перепадов температур. При его использовании в качестве фундамента необходимо дополнительно позаботиться о гидроизоляции. Алгоритм выполнения работ:
- Разметка территории.
- Копка траншей с учетом наклона почвы на участке.
- Укладка геотекстиля. The material provides additional stability to the structure.
- Arrangement of sand and gravel pillows. As a rule, the depth of the trench is 0.4 m, and the thickness of the pillow is 0.1 m.
- Providing waterproofing. The easiest option - the use of roofing material.
- Brick masonry to the required height.
The last stage - the installation of the greenhouse.
For arrangement of the basis usually take a red, but not a silicate brick. Waterproofing may not be rolled type, and coating. Now on sale there are liquid compositions that are applied with a brush on a pre-primed surface.
Brickwork should not have holes in the mortar layer. If necessary, it is added at the seams in addition. This reduces the number of cold bridges. That is, the room of the greenhouse cools slower and requires less heating costs.
Install a greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a columnar foundation is advised in a situation where you need to quickly and cheaply equip a greenhouse. In fact, the construction represents wooden planes dug into the ground, on top of which a harness of the same material is attached. Therefore:
- It is necessary to sheathe the floor, for example, with CSS sheets or plywood, which are treated with water-repellent impregnation or have such a qualitative characteristic. As an option - the ground part is sheathed with boards and a sandy-gravel pad is installed inside, which is well tamped. For this purpose it is better to use a professional electric tool.
- Natural wood is subject to rotting. Even if it is treated with special impregnations, the period of protection will not exceed 10 years. However, there is an exception to the rule - larch. The use of this breed will allow you to forget about the need to repair the foundation for a long time, but it will increase the total cost of the project.
- Ease of work. A person who does not have special education and training can do everything right.
Bars do not have to be from a bar. Just this material is the most simple to use and affordable. They can be made of brickwork, cast from reinforced concrete. The first option is the cheapest, but its service life is short.
The algorithm for performing the work is quite simple:
- The marking of the territory is made.
- Dig pits 0.4x0.4x0.4 m with a step of 2-3 meters.
- A sand-gravel mixture is poured down to a height of 10 cm and compacted.
- Put columns.
- Produced dumping on the side gaps.
- Top is strapping from timber.
After that, work is being done on the arrangement of the floor and you can put a greenhouse from polycarbonate with your own hands, without involving construction companies.
The foundation of the finished blocks
The preparatory stage is exactly the same as when arranging the strip foundation. Only after laying the sand and gravel cushion are reinforced concrete blocks placed on it. The junction between them is fixed solution. Additional waterproofing is carried out by coating. The disadvantage of this method is the need to attract special equipment. RC blocks have a fairly large mass. It is believed that for small lightweight structures to apply this type of foundation is not economically feasible.
We use natural stone
The question of whether a foundation is needed for a greenhouse often arises because of the reluctance to spend additional funds on its arrangement. It is possible to use scrap materials, which significantly reduces costs. It is about stone and clay. Apply two ways to perform work. The initial stage is the same for them: it is necessary to mark out the plot and dig trenches.
One of the most convenient options for building the foundation for a greenhouse is wood. pros
The foundation of the timber - very light and simple design in the assembly. Given its compactness, it is easy to transfer it along with the greenhouse, or even remove and replace it with another one. The very same material is very cheap cost to owners, and therefore suitable even in case of difficulties in the means.
Unfortunately, this material rotting and absolutely helpless against pests that are also actively destroying it. The life of a wooden support is very short - only 5 years, or even less. This basis needs constant additional care - it needs to be treated with an antiseptic solution.
If the tree is in doubt, think about a material like brick. pros
The brick foundation has huge long term potential. Mount it is very simple, it is reliable and stable in nature. The cost of a brick is rather low, so you don’t need to spend much money on its construction.
Despite the strength of the material, the brick is still collapses quickly under the influence of the external environment. The construction of such a design is quite time-consuming, it takes a lot of time, which means it’s quite difficult to build it alone.
If you are not sure whether you need a brick foundation for a greenhouse, consider the option of stone. pros
Stone foundation can be very tough and reliable foundation for greenhouse construction. To serve such a foundation will be very long and will not require an early replacement.
Despite all the obvious advantages, the material will cost very expensive. The process of erection and installation will take a long time, because it is time consuming. It is also quite difficult and long to choose a suitable building material.
It happens that a stone may not seem reliable enough. Then the alternative will be concrete. pros
The concrete foundation for a greenhouse is different simple installation technology. The cost of the finished foundation is very low. You can make it from a monolith or from a variety of blocks. This foundation should be used on the ground, which is characterized by high humidity, because it will give the greenhouse good stability. Minuses
It should be used only if you build a building for many years.
Blocks can be another option. pros
The foundation of the blocks under the greenhouse is good for over wet soil. Serves the design for a very long time and is a profitable investment. In place for laying blocks fall asleep gravel, which after fix concrete. Then the blocks are laid out on the pillow that has been formed and the seams are embedded between them.
A very costly and time-consuming task: the foundation needs additional preparation. Not suitable for temporary buildings.
If you are disturbed not only by the wet, but also by the fragile soil, then the piles will suit you. pros
The pile foundation is perfect for shaky, unstable soil, securely securing the frame of the greenhouse. Inside each pile place a rod, and then filled with concrete. This creates amazing strength. It is welded to the rods and fix the greenhouse construction.
Isolate the rods with roofing material and bitumen mastic. Where there are no piles, there is a gap. Cover the gap can be formed with any material of your choice.
Another plus is the low cost of dismantling this design.
The construction of this type of foundation very laboriousNow you know what are the foundations for a polycarbonate greenhouse, and in general which material is better for you, and you can choose the appropriate type of foundation based on your own preferences.
What is the foundation for?
First, let's look at why a foundation is needed for a polycarbonate greenhouse. The question is really controversial, because the total mass of the frame and plating of a structure rarely exceeds 150-200 kg and it is unlikely that it can sink under its weight in the summer. But in the winter, with a lot of snow falling, something like this could well happen. And yet, if we are not talking about impressive buildings, comparable in size and weight to a good cottage, the risk of sinking of the greenhouse under its weight is not a factor determining the need for a foundation.
The base of the timber for polycarbonate greenhouses
This factor is the protection of plants from sudden changes in temperature. Night frosts in August-September are not uncommon, and their consequences for crops in greenhouses without a foundation can be very sad. Cold air that has penetrated inside through the gaps between the frame and the ground can lead to the death of some plants. In addition, a sharp cooling of the upper soil layers in the greenhouse will not affect their condition in the best way if there is no barrier between them (layers) and the open ground. The foundation will be a good barrier to frost.
Important! Continuing the theme of protecting crops from cold weather, it is worth saying that for greenhouses designed for work in the winter, the presence of a foundation is mandatory. Otherwise, the efficiency of the heating system will be extremely low, and the cost of heating will be horrendous for your wallet.
Correctly chosen and executed foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is a guarantee of long and high quality construction service.
It is worth mentioning that the presence of even the simplest foundation of a polycarbonate greenhouse will significantly reduce the risk of the emergence of weeds, bears and other animal pests.
Although protection is required not only to vegetables and flowers grown in the greenhouse, but also the design itself. If the metal or wooden frame is simply set up on bare ground, then over time, excessive moisture will contribute to corrosion or rotting of the structure. And this will directly reduce the life of the greenhouse and force you to spend money on repairs or rebuilding in a few years.
Such a greenhouse can be operated almost all year round.
And last, but probably the most important reason why a greenhouse made of polycarbonate should have a foundation - the building’s windage. This means that with sufficiently strong gusts of wind, the structure will be thrown off. And then the greenhouse can simply "travel" on your site, breaking the bushes and collapsing itself. Or it can “fly over” to the plot to a neighbor and damage something there, which is unlikely to please both him and you.
Polycarbonate greenhouse on a concrete foundation
Foundation Selection Criteria
The factors affecting the choice of the type of foundation for a greenhouse of polycarbonate, include:
- stationarity of the building
- expected service life
- seasonality of use
- construction time
- soil freezing depth and soil type,
Stationarity If the greenhouse every season will be transferred to a new place, then constructing a costly and complex monolithic foundation is simply impractical. In this case, it is better to give preference to the structure, which can either be easily dismantled and moved along with the greenhouse, or quickly and cheaply re-equip.
Estimated lifetime. With proper construction, polycarbonate greenhouse can serve for 8-10 years. Next, you will need to replace the entire trim and some damaged elements of the frame. And if you assume that the building will “work out” all the time it needs and after the repair it will continue to perform its functions, then the foundation for it should be durable. Accordingly, if the greenhouse is designed to be used for two or three seasons, then the opposite is true.
Dimensions. Everything is simple here - the greater the width, length and height of the building, the greater the mass. And so that the frame of the greenhouse of an impressive area does not sink under its weight, it needs a good foundation.
Seasonality of use. If the greenhouse is to be used not only during the summer season, but also in late autumn or winter, then the foundation should be deep enough to protect the ground inside from frost penetration.
Photo of one of the proposed types of foundation
Terms of erection. It may take a couple of days to set up the simplest foundation. And for monolithic options - a few weeks. Because the faster you want to start growing plants, the simpler the foundation design you need.
Budget. If the construction is not stingy, it makes sense to think about the construction of a concrete foundation with a brick base. Conversely, if funds are allocated little, then the creation of complex structures for polycarbonate greenhouses is impractical.
The depth of soil freezing and soil type. If you are building a greenhouse with a high base or a thermos greenhouse, these factors should be taken into account when arranging the foundation. Neglect of them is fraught with damage to buildings in the swelling of soils in the spring.
Aesthetics - the last, but not the least, factor influencing the choice of the type of foundation for the greenhouse. Of course, the building, based on metal pipes or timber, will look less attractive than a construction with a brick base, concrete pavement and gutter.
If you live near the sea, you can use ordinary stones for the foundation.
For the greenhouse of polycarbonate, you can apply the following types of foundation:
- from timber,
- tape concrete,
- tape with base,
- tape block,
- pillar or pile foundation,
- monolithic plate.
Dimensions polycarbonate greenhouse drawing
The size of the greenhouse is selected on the basis of the area of the plot, the budget for the construction, and the goals that the owner of the plot gives. All greenhouses, except dome-shaped, have the shape of an elongated rectangle. Read more here.
The foundation of the wooden beam
The most common type of basement for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate is a wooden beam construction. This design has the following advantages.
- Low cost and terms of arrangement - to create something faster and at a lower price is impossible.
- Minimum used parts and tools.
- Working with wood is relatively easy.
- No need for excessively tight control of dimensions.
- After arranging the foundation, you can immediately proceed to the assembly of the greenhouse.
- Simplicity of dismantle of the base, its repair or transfer. The latter is especially important for those summer residents who constantly transfer the greenhouse from the exhausted soil to a new place on the plot.
The foundation of the wooden beam
But for all these advantages, you should know that the foundation on the basis of the timber is not the most durable - depending on the type of wood used and the presence of protective coating, the service life is from 5 to 10 years. In addition, to protect the soil from freezing in this way is not possible.
To arrange the foundation of the timber you will need the following materials and tools:
- timber section of 100x50, 100x100 or 150x150 mm,
- corners with screws or pins for fasteners,
- impregnation antiseptic and brush,
- rope and pegs,
- ruler to control the angles
- pencil or marker
- electric jigsaw or saw
Important! Choose larch timber grown in Siberia. Its wood is characterized by high strength and resistance to moisture and rotting. When buying, make sure that the geometry of the timber was in order, and he himself did not have a large number of knots or other defects.
Bar 150х150 mm from larch
Step 1. Clean the area from debris, high grass and stones.
Step 2. Align the plot.
Step 3. Using pegs and a tensioned rope, mark the outer and inner edges of the foundation.
Layout site for the foundation
Step 4. Dig up the trench at the height and depth of the timber.
Step 5. Level the walls of the trench, put sand or gravel on the bottom (25% of its depth).
Step 6. Ram the layer.
Step 7. Measure and mark the length of the timber, taking into account the method of fastening (on the corners or "half-tree"). Then cut with an electric jigsaw or saw.
Step 8. Treat the material with an antiseptic and let it dry.
Step 9. Assemble the timber in a rectangular box without connection, check with a tape measure of length and diagonal.
Laying timber in a trench
Step 10. Connect design elements to each other. If you use pins for this, make cuts in the timber and drill holes for fasteners.
Connection with reinforced corner
Half Tree Connection with Nagel
Half-angle corner joint
Step 11. Lay the box of timber in the trench. Consider that the mass of the structure can be from 150 kilograms or more, therefore, work with several assistants.
Step 12. Fill the gap between the timber and the walls of the trench with sand. On top of the foundation you can lay waterproofing of roofing material or other coating with the same characteristics.
After completing all twelve steps, you can begin to install the frame of the greenhouse on the foundation.
Tip! If you plan to build a greenhouse of great height and area, then the foundation for it should be stronger. Consequently, instead of one beam, it is wiser to use two, as in the image below.
The principle of the construction of the foundation of two rows of timber
Strip foundation with plinth
For the construction of a solid greenhouse of cellular polycarbonate for a long time it makes sense to equip the strip foundation of concrete. Given the relatively small mass of the building, the structure may be shallow, that is, not reach the boundary of the soil freezing. By adding a brick base to the concrete “ribbon”, you will improve the appearance of the foundation and its thermal insulation properties.
The disadvantages of this design include the laboriousness of the work and the construction time - from the completion of the pouring of the concrete to the beginning of the work directly above the greenhouse should pass from two weeks to one month.Due to this circumstance, the first growing season in such a greenhouse is somewhat “trimmed”.
Tip! For the arrangement of polycarbonate greenhouses, in which plants can be grown in winter, the basement depth should be 20-40 cm more than for a building designed for use only in the summer season.
The strip foundation requires the creation of concrete with a brand (for compressive strength) not lower than M200. This indicator determines the strength of the mixture in compression and its ability to resist loads. The composition of the concrete (depending on the brand) is given in the table below.
Table. Mass proportions of cement, crushed stone and sand for concrete preparation.
At the bottom of the trench settles sand and gravel pillow. After this, removable formwork is installed. Inside a layer of natural stone is poured. The gaps between the cobblestones are filled with fine gravel. After that, a mixture of liquid clay and lime is poured on top. After a few days the formwork can be removed. This foundation has good performance. It is highly resistant to moisture.
This is a variation of the strip foundation. Only here instead of armokarkas and concrete use a stone with a clay-lime mortar. At the bottom of the trench poured a layer of concrete 5 cm thick. It is necessary to wait for it to solidify. After that, a layer of stone, better than sandstone, is laid out and filled with a clay-lime mortar. After drying, its surface is wetted, and stones are put again. They are also filled with clay solution. The procedure is repeated until the required height of the foundation.
This option is used in situations where it is necessary to ensure maximum rigidity of the frame-base. In fact, the work consists of the implementation of measurements and welding of pipes. First, the markup is made under the base. After that, the frame is brewed. The next stage is corrosion treatment. First, the pipes are cleaned with a solvent and metal brushes, then they are dedusted, ground and covered with two layers of oil paint.
In the area along the markup dig a small trench. The arrangement of a sand-gravel pillow 5-10 cm high is made. After that, the metal frame is laid. The foundation pipe for polycarbonate greenhouses ready.
We use timber
The foundation of the treated timber under the polycarbonate greenhouse is arranged similarly to the base of the brickwork. Fastening of the joints is made using metal brackets or plates with holes into which screws are twisted. The wood is pre-treated with water-repellent impregnations and substances that drive away the borer bugs. Between the crowns of the bars stack tow or jute tape. If possible, it is better to use a slot connection of elements.
Timber foundation usually consists of several crowns. It is used in situations where it is necessary to provide a tape type of construction with minimal cost. However, this plus overlaps with minus - the wood is prone to rotting, insects undermine it. The use of impregnations is not a panacea, since their duration is limited. The exception to this rule are larch and cedar. These breeds are resistant to moisture and are not susceptible to beacon boring. However, the cost of them is significantly higher than that of a regular pine timber.
The construction of any structure begins with the device base. The foundation for the garage of foam blocks is no exception and requires careful approach to.
The foundation is the foundation of a building, whether it is a one-storeyed house or a few floors, or a bath of foam blocks, such a light and warm material. AT .
Polycarbonate Greenhouse Foundation
Building materials suitable for this foundation: timber, brick, concrete mix, ready-made concrete slabs and blocks. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each material.
Cheap material, lightweight, to the pros - easy operation and operation, excellent thermal insulation characteristics. But a short service life (even when processing from destruction with special compounds) makes you look at other materials.
Conclusion: in principle suitable for lightweight greenhouses made of polycarbonate, film.
It is simple to make, ordinary brickwork is used. Well maintains the weight of the greenhouse, even suitable for heated options. Of the minuses of the design - the material tends to accumulate moisture and therefore quickly collapse. At low temperatures, additional warming is required.
Good, reliable, durable option. Well resists high humidity and other negative factors. The disadvantages of this foundation can be attributed to a considerable cost, low thermal insulation quality and a lot of weight.
Inexpensive, easy to manufacture option. The material is resistant to adverse environmental conditions. But: it doesn’t keep warm and has low strength.
Key features: durable, durable, reliable, budget. But the design features of such a foundation require hard tying and insulation of the base.
Easy to install, this option can be moved from place to place. Suitable for mobile soil and gardens with difficult terrain. Of the disadvantages - metal piles have a tendency to corrosion.
Reliable, durable, durable, suitable for any soil. Well isolates the insides of the greenhouse from negative factors and pests. Disadvantages: high cost of installation, large weight, the need for additional insulation. Due to the fact that the planting will be isolated from the usual soil in the greenhouse will need to do the drainage and monitor the microclimate.
Basement insulation is required only for winter greenhouses. For insulation using expanded polystyrene or expanded clay, which is filled with gaps between the structure of the base and the trench.
Conclusion: for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate is better suited tape, solid and slab foundation.
Greenhouse without foundation
Lightweight polycarbonate greenhouses can be installed on the ground without building a foundation. However, in this case, it is necessary to firmly fix the structure to the ground.
How to put a greenhouse made of polycarbonate without a foundation? -If you say briefly, it is necessary to align the surface on which the installation is made, install the structure and fix it with the help of pins to the ground. If the soil is loose and the length of the regular pins is not enough, they can be replaced by longer ones.
To summer residents who operate greenhouses exclusively during the season, the method of installation on the ground gives a lot of advantages:
- saving time, allowing for installation for a couple of fine days,
- cost reduction due to the abandonment of expensive building materials used for the foundation,
- the opportunity to do all the work on the preparation of the base and the installation to do it personally, with the assistance of only one assistant,
- ease of dismantling in case of disassembly of the structure at the end of the season,
- mobility, ensuring the movement of facilities to a more fertile place, if the selected site was not sufficiently productive.
Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse without a foundation
Experienced installers of greenhouse structures are advised to put the building on the ground or on the foundation at the end of the summer season. the most favorable temperature for the coating is 10º C. Cellular polycarbonate with it is sufficiently plastic to easily block the arched supports with a single sheet, and does not crack when the bolts are tightened, as in frost.
So, consider an example.
Suppose it is planned to install a 3 x 8 meter polycarbonate greenhouse.
Previously, we found that the soil on the site is sand with rare layers and lenses of sandy loam, which will not significantly degrade the filtration properties. Groundwater is deposited significantly lower than the limit parameter of 1.2 meters. This means that there will be no need to worry about the drainage device, and we will prepare the plot as follows:
- we divide by installation of pegs the platform 4 × 9 meters. We connect them with twine,
- align the marked area. We remove the turf and visible bumps with a shovel, after which we check the horizontal position with a building level. The maximum tolerance for elevation differences is no more than 5 cm. We pay attention to the perimeter, more precisely, to imaginary “stripes” 0.5-0.7 m wide along the break lines. It will be possible to plan the surface inside the structure after its installation,
- let's step back from the breakdown of 0.3 meters, draw a mopping line with a shovel, bar, and an iron pin on the ground. This will be the outer edge of the trench
- We dig a trench 0.4 meters wide. The depth of the trench depends on the length of the T-shaped legs of the greenhouse, usually it is 0.3 m. Above the surface, the bottom frame of the frame, which rests on the legs, should rise 0.1 m,
- slightly, without much fanaticism, we will drown the bottom of the trench. Since classic greenhouses / greenhouses made of polycarbonate weigh 70 kg on average, and the mass of the structure is distributed over the entire area, it is not necessary to tamper the bottom of the trench diligently.
In order not to undermine and lay the ground in a trench or bricks at the corners because of the skewed frame, check the horizontal level of the bottom. Immediately correct the flaws, if found, and proceed to the assembly. Recall the need to protect plants from weeds and apply the folk trick: we will overlay the outer wall of the trench with used slate sheets. Instead, ruberoid will suit, but after a couple of years, the courageous roots of wheatgrass still “pierce”.
Greenhouse frame assembly instructions
If you put the greenhouse with your own hands, then you need to arm only with a wrench and a screwdriver. Complete factory designs usually have a full set of fasteners, and at the same time a scheme for self-installation of the greenhouse, according to which it is necessary to act.
However, in our case, the sequence of works will be somewhat changed, so we need:
- assemble the ends, attaching the door frame, window analogue and reinforcing strips to the end arcs, if the ends were not assembled by the seller or welded by the manufacturer,
- bolt the details of the bottom trim and attach the T-shaped legs to it. All “underground” and ground contact parts must be treated with bitumen before installation into the trench,
- move the assembled strapping with attached supports to the location and install this part of the structure in the trench so that the strapping rises 10 cm above the surface,
- align the horizontal position of the installation with a level, if necessary, correct the position by lining the bricks,
- assemble the frame according to the instructions attached to the product, attach the polycarbonate, install automatic vents, if they are included in the kit,
- fill the gap between the assembled structure and the ground with soil so that the edges of the sheets are closed by 3-5 cm.
When assembling a greenhouse, it is necessary to perform all the steps sequentially, for example, the protective film from polycarbonate sheets should not be removed ahead of time in order not to damage the material. Pay particular attention to the sides of the sheets, since only one of them has protection from UV radiation. If you violate the instructions, the incorrect assembly of the greenhouse will lead to an increase in its cost, because serious alterations will be needed.